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Fitting Instructions

Important Information- Please read before fitting

Units and wood worktops are made from kiln dried timber and MDF and as such are extremely sensitive to moisture and especially to adverse atmospheric conditions causing swelling and distortion.

Under no circumstances should these units be fitted ,or stored, in damp or cold environments.

Any damage must be reported within 24 hours of delivery otherwise no returns can be accepted (see reverse for details).

Prior to fitting, please ensure that:

  • Newly plastered rooms are thoroughly dry.
  • The decorating and tiled floors are completed .
  • Room temperature is at least 19° during and after fitting
  • All plumbing , electrical and extractor preparation work has been completed for the installation of appliances & taps.

A basic understanding of practical carpentry knowledge and tools are essential when attempting to fit these units.

Items supplied to aid the fitting process include :

  • 22mm square battens (can be painted wall or unit colour as required)
  • The appropriate "Fitting Pack" 
  • 50mm Right angled brackets
  • Set of legs for each base unit ( supplied inside the unit)
  • Screws and wall plugs are NOT supplied with this kitchen.


Although all units are made to standard sizes, due to the nature of the handmade product, exact measurements are not apparent as in CNC factory made kitchen units. The base unit depth (front to back) measurement should be 580mm but can have a tolerance of up to 10mm therefore ranging from 575mm to 585mm. When fitting, this difference in depth is overcome by trimming the extended backs where appropriate (see below). The height of 775mm is generally constant, although a slight difference of 1-2mm can be overcome with even sanding. The widths should not vary, although when fitting a long run of units, the overall length may be slightly longer by a few millimetres.

The fitting process is outlined below in the recommended order.

Base Units

Low base units are 775mm with 100mm adjustable legs, making a total of 875mm before worktops. This is a standard height to allow for appliances. Carefully unwrap the units, ensuring not to cut fronts or sides if using a knife, then fit the legs 50mm back from the front and sides in order to allow for the later plinth attachment. Before installation, it is always recommended to measure and mark on the wall where the units are to placed. This highlights any pipes wire etc which may need to be negotiated especially around the sink area and ensures the units fit in the space available. The extended backs are used for cutting around pipes and wires without the back boards being disturbed and also for scribing purposes.


1. Start installation by placing the corner unit in position . If there is no corner unit , then begin from a side wall or an appropriate place which ensures the final unit in the run has its correct space.

Corner Units

There are two types of corner base unit, a VL5085 ( fig 3 shows the leg placement) and a VL5025. The VL5085 measures 880mm x 880mm x 775mm H x 580mm D and can accept a carousel if required. The VL5025 measures 900mm L x 580mm D x 775mm H but takes the space of 1100mm (see fig 4). From the front it has the appearance of a 500mm wide base unit and has a extra internal depth in order to accept a ?magic corner? pull-out. Prior to fitting a magic corner the ?Magic Corner Pack? will need to be installed, which consists of two pieces of painted infill?s designed to effectively bring the side and base flush with the outer frame (see fig 5). The soft closer, block and shelf supports will need to be removed from the inside first.


2. Level the corner unit using the legs to adjust the height and leave at least 105mm space for the plinth. If the floor is to be tiled after fitting ,then this space needs to be increased by the tile and adhesive thickness.

3. Place the adjacent unit in position and level in the same way.

4. Drill 5 x 4mm screw holes in the unit?s side and screw the units together, keeping the front beads in line. Always screw the front together first then the back.


5. Once a section of units are screwed together in this manner, fix to the wall using the brackets provided. Please note, it is normally unnecessary to secure every unit to the wall.

The wooden corner brace can be removed where the bracket is to be fitted and will not affect the unit?s construction (fig 6)

Tall Units

These are installed by the same method. If there is a void beneath these units, blocks are provided to attach under the base before the legs are fitted ensuring adequate extension.

Fridge/Freezer Housing: The versatile VL 5051 F/F unit can be used as follows:

a. To house a 70/30 fridge freezer. A ?VL5051 F/F Pack? is required. This consists of two infill pieces (see fig 7).


b. To house a full height fridge or freezer. The same ?VL 5051 F/F Pack? is required but the doors need to be joined together to form a single door. This can be done by using a flattened bracket acting as a strap, secured across the two doors ( see fig 8).
Alternatively, the two doors can be removed and connected using a biscuit cutter and dry biscuits fitted.

c. As a shelf cupboard. This requires the VL 5051 Shelf Pack? consisting of a back, 3 shelves and shelf supports .

d. As a utility cupboard for ironing board, mop and bucket etc. Also needs the ?VL5051 Shelf Pack? but only 1 shelf at the top may be required.

NB. Some appliances require the doors to be fitted directly to the front which therefore would mean the hinges to be removed and the indents filled- preferably with wood fillets.

6. Appliance Installation

Integrated Dishwashers : Due to the plinth being 100mm, dishwashers need to be as low to the floor as possible, allowing the door, when fitted to pivot into the machine without hindrance. Fit the door to the machine as instructed by the manual. Always ensure there is nothing behind an integrated D/W, such as a plug socket ,as it will need to sit almost to the wall. Put the socket in a neighbouring unit or use a separate spur, switched elsewhere. Any pipes which need to run behind the D/W will need to be at ground level. A filling piece of wood will need to be fitted above the D/W after placing in position for it to be secured. Cut a length of plinth for this purpose and fix to the adjacent units or end panel. This would normally be approx.55 mm - 65mm H.(see fig. 7)


Under-mounted Integrated Fridges / Freezers / Washing Machines / Tumble-dryers : If the door is not to be fixed directly onto the appliance , then it will need to be hinged on its neighbouring unit or end panel. If fitting two appliances side by side, an end panel may be used as a divider. This can be useful as support, as well as a good anchor point, for the worktop.

7. End Panels

These are designed to be scribed into place and so are oversized at 900mm H x 600mmW . They are intended to fit directly to the floor and for the plinth to butt up against them.(see fig 10 )


8. Wall Units

Battens are used to hold the wall units on the wall above and below. These are fixed using wall plugs and screws which are not included with the units.
NB. Ensure the battens stop 40mm short of the end of the unit run both top and bottom to allow for the pelmet and cornice (see fig 11)


a. If there are tall units in the kitchen, then with a spirit level, draw a line on the wall level with the tops where the wall units are to be placed. Continue at this level with the line wherever wall units occur, including around any corners.

b. Fix battens above this line to the wall

c. Measure down 690 mm from this batten and mark the wall.

d. With the spirit level, draw a line and fix the bottom batten to the wall.

e. I f there is a run of several units adjacent to each other then firstly screw these together before mounting on the wall. Although advisable due to the slight difference in depth as previously covered in the base units, wall units can be fitted individually if necessary. NB. Do not force the wall units against an uneven wall as it may distort the unit, making the doors misalign and may also break the frame joints.

f. Once in place , screw the units down through the battens from the top (using pre-drilled holes ) and up from the bottom.

9. Cornice

Cut to fit using a mitre saw and place over the front edge of the wall units. Drill several 4mm holes at an angle through the corner of the unit tops behind the top frame and screw the cornice to the cupboards.(see fig 12)

10. Pelmet

The pelmet is designed to fit under the run of wall units to ensure an integrated look as well as hiding any pelmet lights. Always use a mitre saw for any corners.

These are set back 20mm from the front and are attached by fixing screws downwards via pre-drilled holes through the bottom of the wall units behind the front frame. (see fig 13).


11. Plinths

There are two types of plinth - internal and external.

The internal plinth is fixed onto the adjustable legs using the clips provided.(fig 14 ). Always remember the dishwasher cut-out as outlined in the D/W manual.

Secondly, the external plinths attached to the bottom front edge of the base units and fixed similarly to the cornice, as in angled screws through the bottom front corners (fig 15 ). Again always use a mitre saw for the corners.


12. Worktops

If wood or laminate worktops are to be installed then fix them down using 5mm pre-drilled holes through the top frame of the base units. The larger hole allows for slight movement of the timber in future. It is recommended that when fitting wood worktops, to route a bull- nosed edge on the front edge and complete with at least 3 coats of Danish Oil and at least one coat on the under side prior to fitting.

13. Belfast Sinks

Ensure the worktop is overhanging the sink by at least 20mm on its three internal sides.

14. Painting

Once all units are fitted, fill any joints and imperfections with an appropriate quick drying polyfilla or similar , and decorators caulk . Caulk can be also be used to fill any other void throughout the kitchen units such as in the drawers or the door panels , or even inside the units. Always remember to caulk the units to the wall if necessary. It is then recommended to paint the entire outside of the kitchen with at least one coat to blend everything together.the worktop is overhanging the sink by at least 20mm on its three internal sides.

If the kitchen has been purchased unpainted, then the following proceedure is recommended :

  • a. Do not fit any handles to the units prior to fitting.
  • b. Small holes and imperfections must be filled with a quick drying polyfilla and then lightly sanded.
  • c. Paint at least one coat of knot sealing primer ( Zinnser Wood Primer is recommended ).Lightly sand.
  • d. Either paint another coat of Zinnser or at least one coat of undercoat. Lightly sand.
  • e. Paint at least 2 coats of finishing colour, sanding in between coats.

15. Adjustments

Drawers can be adjusted by altering the runners which have adjustments for all directions ( ie. up and down , side to side , in and out ) , found underneath the front of the drawer. There is also adjustment up and down for the rear of the drawer, found behind the drawer back. These adjustments are better carried out before the worktops are installed due to easier access.

If required the drawers can be easily removed by squeezing the two green clips found under the drawer fronts outwards, towards the drawer sides and then pulling out the drawer.
Doors do not have adjustable hinges but can be adjusted if required by means of shims placed between the hinges and the frame.


Although we are pleased to help and advise on any fitting query via a phone call or your personal visit to our showroom, no responsibility is taken for any consequences incurred due to incorrect fitting, or adjustment, by a third party. Sambourne Kitchens reserve the right to charge for any rectification of errors or making good of any poorly fitted kitchen.

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